An exceptional workshop: sewing the Chanel jacket in Brussels
In January, La Maison de Couture (lamaisondecouture.be), a fashion design and haute couture school located on boulevard Auguste Reyers in Brussels, will open the doors of its workshop for an intensive course in the art of making a Chanel jacket, from January 5 to 9(lamaisondecouture.be).
For five days, participants will create a genuine “French jacket” inspired by the House of Chanel: choice of tweed, cut, assembly, entirely hand-finished – a condensation of haute couture savoir-faire.
What makes the Chanel jacket so special?
If the Chanel jacket has become an icon, it’s not just for its style, but for its very specific construction:
- Cardigan silhouette: a close-fitting, relatively straight line, originally inspired by bellboy uniforms, designed to accompany movement rather than restrict it(WeAllSew).
- Four patch pockets and a simple neckline (often round or slightly square), highlighted by braided braid and jewel buttons, characteristic of the house’s iconic models(liveauctioneers.com).
- Quilted tweed lining: in the haute couture version, the silk lining is quilted directly to the tweed, piece by piece. This quilting gives the garment its unique suppleness and almost “knit cardigan” feel, while maintaining a very dressy look(WeAllSew).
- Bottom hem chain: a metal chain is sewn into the lining along the bottom of the jacket. It acts as a counterweight so that the jacket falls perfectly, stays in place and doesn’t ride up when the arms are raised(WeAllSew).
- Two or three-piece sleeve: the famous three-piece sleeve on Chanel jackets follows the natural curvature of the arm and offers great freedom of movement, while remaining very close to the body(Cloning Couture).
This blend of tailoring techniques (precision of cut) and flou (suppleness, comfort, large proportion of hand sewing) is at the heart of the workshop program offered by La Maison de Couture.
Chanel tweed: a signature fabric
It’s impossible to talk about the Chanel jacket without mentioning its emblematic fabric: tweed and Chanel-style bouclé.
Chanel-type tweeds are characterized by :
- A bouclette or fancy weave creates a textured surface and a luxurious feel(bhmercerie.fr).
- Complex blends of fibers: wool, cotton, viscose, polyester, polyamide, sometimes lurex or metallic threads, to play on light, relief and comfort(Mondial Tissus).
- A soft yet dense hand, ideal for jackets, suits, structured dresses and light coats.(new tess)
- Fancy colors and effects: twisted, sequined yarns, ribbons, velvet threads, jacquard effects – all elements that give Chanel tweeds an almost “jewel-like” dimension.(malhia.fr)
The workshop will focus on the choice of fabric, how to stabilize it without freezing it, and how to use it to shape the volume of the jacket.
Exceptional suppliers: Malhia Kent and Clarenson
To work in the spirit of the great ateliers, La Maison de Couture will feature weaving houses used by haute couture:
- Malhia Kent
A Parisian fashion house founded in 1987, Malhia Kent imagines, weaves and markets 100% French-made fantasy fabrics. Its tweeds and bouclés, often almost “experimental”, are designed for top international designers and luxury houses(malhia.fr). - Clarenson
A historic weaving mill based in Castres since 1923, Clarenson specializes in high-end fancy tweeds, bouclés and jacquards. Its fabrics, often in limited production runs, are seen on the catwalks of major international fashion houses, and are particularly sought-after for Chanel-style suits and jackets.(maxbloch.be)
These manufacturers embody the excellence of modern French tweed, and their fabrics will be at the heart of the workshop demonstrations.
What you will learn during the workshop (5 days)
Day 1 – Copy pattern and adaptations
- Analysis of the iconic Chanel jacket silhouette.
- Adjusting the pattern to the measurements.
Day 2 – Cutting and preparing tweed
- Placement of the pattern in the tweed (management of joints and pattern).
- Cutting fabric and lining parts.
- Marking assembly lines
Day 3 – Quilting and jacket body assembly
- Preparation of the lining using the French jacket method.
- Jacket body assembly, seam value management and hand finishing hidden under the lining.
Day 4 – Sleeve, collar and pockets
- Sleeve construction, fitting and alterations.
- Collar or neckline assembly, creation and fitting of characteristic pockets.
Day 5 – Haute couture finishes
- Fitting braids and jewel buttons(liveauctioneers.com)
- Chain stitching inside the hem to balance the weight of the jacket.
- Final hand finishing, high-fashion ironing and photo-taking of your finished jackets in the workshop.
Practical information
- Dates: January 5 to 9
- Location: Atelier de La Maison de Couture, 211 boulevard Auguste Reyers, 1030 Brussels(lamaisondecouture.be)
- Public: La Maison de Couture students and outsiders with a good grounding in sewing (jacket assembly recommended).
- Objective: leave with your own perfectly-fitted Chanel-style jacket, and mastery of the main “French jacket” techniques.
For registration and details of prerequisites, interested parties can contact the school directly via the website + More info and Registration
